Friday 9 December 2011

Winter wonderland on Bowfell

Having survived the earthquake which rattled a few fillings in Cumbria last night, (sounds like Coniston was the epi center) here's my final blog of 2010, a wonderful day over Bowfell on the edge of the Langdale valley. I walked again today with Albert and it was great t have company to be able to share this amazing experience. Be warned, it's an epic even by my standards!!

We set off around 9am, a bit later than usual but we wanted to let a few other cars break up the icy road surface before us. It was a cozy -8 when we left the car, but thankfully little wind which made it bearable. Bowfell, our final destination of the day catching the first of the days sun down the Mickelden valley.
The Cumbria way heads through the valley, and this was the path we followed at the start of the walk. As we came around the corner, we were greated by an army of Herdies just sat on the path blocking our way. Being fearless adventurers, we plucked up all our courage and marched on through!!
The early morning sun was lighting up the end of the valley making for a very pleasant start to the days toils. Our first summit of the day, Rossett Pike can be seen as the bobbly bit on the right at the top of the valley. Todays path is up through Rossett Gill, the ravine just in the shadows.
Albert takes a breather and admires the views back into the Mickelden valley from the bottom of Rossett Gill. You may remember this photo spot from this same walk in March where I had my walking poles situated, I think Albert makes a much better model, but I did get shouted at for not telling him to suck it in just before I clicked... sorry mate..;-) The domed peak of Pike O'Stickle can be seen just over his sshoulder.
We decided to tackle the gill rather than the longer path around it. I was thankful I had my spikes today, as poor old Albert slipped and scrambled his way up the ravine, how I chuckled. We met a guy on the way down through here, who on stopping to chat with him explained he had been out on the fells for the last 3 days and had camped on the summit of Scafell Pike last night!! He was off back to Skipton to dry his kit before heading up to Scotland for a weeks climbing. Mad, but a part of me was also very envious.
Rossett Pike and Albert blazing his way across virgin snow to reach the summit. This is a lovely little peak to visit which gives fantastic views into the valley below. Time for a quick cuppa at the top and then off across Angle Tarn to Ore Gap.
A frozen Angle tarn with Rosset Pike visible just lit by the sunlight above it on the left. This is a popular spot for wild camping, and often through the spring and summer you'll be greated by the smell of coffee and bacon cooking as you pass. It had turned really cold now as we moved out the sun and walked this steep section through Ore Gap.
We finally made it to the top of the gap and back into the sun. Wonderful views across to the Eastern fells, but the path was strewn with these huge frozen areas which required some careful navigating around (well for Albert anyway as I just walked over them in my spikes!)
Albert takes a well earned rest at the top of Ore Gap. The ground is normally a red colour through here due to the mineral content, and I may not be a million miles away when I'm guessing that's where it got its name from!!
My initial thoughts today were to go on to Esk Hawse and over Esk Pike, but having done that before in these sort of conditions I know how hard on the legs and lungs that can be, so opted to cut that corner off. Looking up at Esk Pike summit from the gap was spectacular though, stunning.
There are still some pretty steep climbs up to the top of Bowfell, but with the sun on our backs and some superb views to keep us amused, it was a very pleasurable climb - Albert follows the well trodden route through deep snow.
Despite a distant haze, the clarity of the views, especially to the north, were fantastic. Looking across at the Caudale fells in the far distance over Glaramara in the foreground. Grasmoor on the far left (see previous blog for that route)
Almost there, the final last push onto Bowfell's summit. You can see how the ice has formed on the rocks, this side of the hill gets no sun through the winter months.
Bowfell is one of my favourite mountains, the views from the top are simply amazing. Let me talk you through what you can see from here: The most stand out feature is the Scafell masif. From left to right: Scafell, Scafell Pike and Ill Crag.
A 90 deg turn left gives views down into Eskdale and views across to the West coast. It was quite hazy over here, but this just added to the drama of the view.
Another turn to the left and the Crinkle Crags and beyond them the Coniston Fells.
Finally a glance to the east. The mist was started to form in the valleys below, you could have sat here for hours drinking in these amazing vistas.
However, all good things must come to an end and our journey must continue, so we headed down towards the Crinkle Crags. A quick look back at the top of Bowfell on our descent and there were still a few people on the top, although nowhere near as many as I thought would be out walking today.
Albert performs his tried and tested 'crab' technique as he descend the slippery slope down towards the 3 tarns.
A bank of low cloud and mist was swirling around now blocking off the views across to Scafell and was dancing across the face of the Bowfell links. There are normally 3 tarns here at the dip between Bowfell and the Crinkle crags, today it was just one big frozen wasteland. We had intended to head across the Crinkles, but due to the fact one of the pair had been messing around taking pictures, time was a bit short, so we headed back down to Langdale via The Band.
A final look back as we start the descent.
A very cold looking Langdale vally from the top of The Band. With the low winter sun it gets little or no sunlight, so it looked like it was going to be chilly when we got to the bottom.
The Langdale Pikes catching the last of the days sun.
See, I wasn't the only one taking pictures!! Albert grabs a final view images of the day as we head along the path out of Stool End farm. The Crinkle Crag ridge can be seen at the head of the valley. As suspected, it was rather cold down here, -9.5 at the car.
As Albert headed back toward Keswick, I went back via Ambleside and couldn't resist stopping off at Waterhead for a few last images. The Crinkles in the setting sun across the boats from end of Windermere.
The view down the lake from the same spot. Very tranquil, but very very cold!!
One last stop at the Swan Hotel at Newby Bridge to capture a reflected moon on the opposite end of Windermere. The Swan is teh large hotel on the lake side of Newby Bridge as you come through, and has undergone a huge refurbishment after last years floods. It's a great place to stop, especially in the summer, so pop in if you're assing and give them so we needed support (no I'm not on commision!!)

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